Peru

Peru (October 22nd to November 26th, 2003)

We took the bus from Ecuador into Peru and were confronted immediately by the faster, louder pace of life in the southern country. After just a few days we were characterizing the contrast between the two countries as one between a more developed (but not necessarily more civilized) and a developing nation. It´s the little differences that we notice, and here they are exemplary. For instance, on Ecuadorian buses no one would ever think of insisting on sitting in his or her assigned seat. The informality has its own integrity, and works. In Peru, the first thing that happened to us was that we were made to move from the place where we´d sat on a bus to our assigned seats. Fine. It seems that here, because there is more structure, people have more basis for insistence on things, and are thus, unpleasantly at times, rather insistent (there are even signs saying, ¨No insistir¨).

We spent a fair amount of time speaking to the people on the street (so to speak) about their impressions of politics and the current administration, and with more focus ended up finding out more about the climate in Peru than we had in Ecuador. We had been told by many Ecuatorianos that Peru is much cheaper than Ecuador, but did not discover a huge difference in prices. We used Peruvian Soles all the time, though the dollar is widely accepted for larger purchases. The economy is not good, and people´s discontent with their current President, Alejandro Toledo, seems to be quite strong (quite a few people spoke with nostalgia of former President and current Japan resident Alberto Fujimori).

We noticed the same signs of the informal employment we had seen in Ecuador--lots of people trying to sell you your weight, or shine your shoes (it does not matter if they are tevas), or offering eightpacks of batteries for the equivalent of twenty cents. While this enterprising spirit was similar to that we observed in Ecuador (and very admirable in many ways--we saw very few people simply begging, and many, many people working quite hard), the level of aggression in the vendors was stronger in Peru. Of course, Peru is finally a much more touristic country, and the people are long used to being able to get a few soles out of visiting gringos.

Interesting facts about Peru: No. 1 Voting is compulsory (as it is in Ecuador); those who do not vote are fined! Nobody to whom we spoke about this thought it was a good idea.

The North Coast

We did not find very many other gringos on our trip through the towns of Chiclayo and Trujillo or the inland pueblo of Cajamarca. The atmosphere was certainly faster paced and less pleasant in some ways than we were to experience in other, more touristed areas of the country, but we were fascinated by the archeological sites and museums we were able to visit on this part of the trip. Near Chiclayo, we visited the town of Lambayeque, home to extensive museum collections detailing the pre-Inca cultures of the area. With this introduction we were able to make some sense of the ruins we saw in the succeeding weeks.

We visited Sipan, a small site on the plains outside of Chiclayo which was only discovered quite recently, when a local archeologist heard rumors of golden masks and other artifacts being traded on the black market and began to investigate. The issue of graverobbing (huaquero) is a serious one in Peru, for the pre-Incan people and the Incans had a habit of decorating their graves with valuable metals. Since the plunder of the Spaniards it has been quite traditional for people to make away with what they can. In this case, the archeologists have been able to involve the locals in the work of excavation and turned what was initially a conflict into a cooperative relationship. We discussed the similarities between the style of burial here and in Eqypt and wondered what kind of comparative studies have been done. It is remarkable to note that such disparate cultures nonetheless felt compelled to surround their important dead so similarly, with such wealth and with such similar amenities--vessels for consumption, pets, servants to serve as guards. However, since Peru is not a wealthy country, the investigations of Sipan, as of other sites, are not complete.

Near Trujillo, we visited the immense mud city of ChanChan, which like Sipan is only partly excavated. Whereas Sipan was attributed to the Moche culture, ChanChan is a product of the later, Chimu culture. Close to the sea dunes, this huge complex comprises a succession of smaller communities which were built on the occasion of the local leader´s ascension, with a view to his ultimate internment in an elaborate central temple. Only one of the communities is open to the public, and much of the patterning with which the buildings were decorated has been eroded by El Nino events.


The mud city of Chan Chan. Formerly, rooves would have covered the walls.

It was also in Trujillo that we visited the Huacas del Sol y de La Luna (misnamed by the Spaniards), which are being excavated with funding from the huge beer enterprise of Backus and Johnston (therefore we drank lots of Cuzquena beer in order to support their efforts). Here the sands and successive layers of building had preserved some very colorful murals.

In addition to our coastal visits, we made a detour to the mountain town of Cajamarca. We were both interested in this city because it is where the Inca Atahualpa was defeated by Pisarro in 1532, the decisive victory in the Spanish conquest of the Inca empire and what is now Peru. The victory was remarkable because the Inca´s troops so vastly outnumbered the Spaniard´s, but the latter was able to vanquish with use of more advanced weapon technology. Following the defeat Atahualpa was held for ransom; we saw the so-called Cuarto del Rescate, which was to be filled twice with silver and once with gold in order to save the Inca--who was, nonetheless, ultimately executed.


The Rescate in Cajamarca that the Spanish wanted filled with silver and gold as ransom for the Inca King. Whom they later killed.

It was also during our travels down the North Coast that we were privy to a series of processions involving various Virgins and Saints, notably the Virgen de La Puerta. These parades took place at night, and often occurred over the course of several evenings; a large wax statue/doll of the saint or virgin in question, of the sort to be found decorating the walls of church after church throughout Peru, was raised in a gilded, illuminated box and held above the shoulders of several faithful, who walked along slowly, swaying the adored statue/doll from side to side to the accompaniment of a dirge-like bit of music entoned by a band of drums and horn instruments. Along with the central object came slowly filing religious types, holding candles, wafting incense, or helping out with prayers. Trailing the wax saint was his/her cord, which connected to a pick-up truck in which the generator was hauled. The advance team ran ahead lighting fireworks of the loud, nonvisual type. This went on until late at night, until the doll/statue arrived at his/her sanctuary.

Lima

We had heard few things to recommend Lima, but in the event we rather enjoyed it. Certainly Lima is a huge city, but we were able to get to the museums and churches we hoped to see by walking and taking the bus, once Adrian worked out the system. We visited the Museo de La Nacion to consolidate our awareness of pre-Incan cultures, and the Museo Rafael Lorca not only for its collection of erotic ceramics (really -- there were millions of other neat pots too!). We toured the cloisters of San Francisco and saw the extensive collection of bones in the downstairs crypt. In the chichi suburb of Miraflores, I was able to purchase a steroid inhaler for my allergies (induced by Lima´s pollution) without so much as a blink from the pharmacist.


The traffic of Lima

In Lima at the end of our trip, we visited the Museo de la Inquisicion, where we were able to compare the methods of control and sacrifice used by the Spanish colonists to those we had observed in the myriad temples we had visited.

Interesting facts about Peru: No. 2 The word for ¨inky black substance¨ is ¨cafe¨

Cusco and the Inca Trail


The market at Pisac, as view from our hostal.


A large rock and me, part of Sacsayhuman


A large piece of Inca masonary


Inca masonary closeup, with water channels built into the stone.


Carrie sitting on an Inca clock.

From Lima, having had our share of looooong bus rides, we decided to fly to Cusco. There, we spent a few days seeing the museums and nearby ruins, and learning a lot about the Incas finally (after the preamble of earlier cultures), before making our way to the nearby Sacred Valley. In El Valle Sagrado we visited the ruins of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, and enjoyed the views of the Urubamba river valley afforded by the spectacular Inca terracing. After having heard very mixed reviews of the Inca Trail, we had booked a trip with the idea that it would not be a nature experience or anything like the backpacking we are used to, but an opportunity to meet some other gringos and a neat way to approach the famous ruins of Machu Picchu.


Machu Picchu as seen from Huayna Picchu


Closeup of Machu Picchu at sunrise

We had elected to go with one of the cheaper outfits, as we did not see much difference between the services offered by the groups, and we were not disappointed. Our trip comprised ten tourists, nine porters(!), and a guide. Since we were carrying so little, and are used to hiking at altitude, we found the trail relatively easy, and had lots of time to rest while waiting for the others to arrive at the various lunch, rest, and ruins spots along the way. We enjoyed the other people on our trip, finding that they--like our fellow passengers from Galapagos--were an engaging, diverse, interesting group. Our guide was amiable but not very informative, but we had not expected much.

The really outstanding part of the tour was the food and general service provided by the porters, who scurry along the trail carrying huge loads without so much as a waist strap to alleviate the weight, arriving ahead to set up camp and heat the water for the famous mate de coca which is supposed to help with the altitude. In addition, we were awed by the views of densely forested mountains, the ruins along the trail, and the early-morning vision of the Lost City which greeted us on the fourth day.


A llama at Machu Picchu.


Kofi Annan and Alejandro Toledo, with their wives, at Machu Picchu

I won't presume to describe Machu Picchu except to say that it was not only fascinating but quite beautiful, surrounded as it is (as you all know from experience or from photos) with dramatic jungly peaks and comprising precisely carved and placed rock structures. In addition to our tour of the ruins (which was riddled with dubious "facts," eye-raising comparisons of rocks to this or that animal, and remarks maligning Hiram Bingham and "Jail" university, where many of the artifacts are housed), Adrian and I went up the nearby peak of Huayna Picchu, where we had a fantastic 360 degree view of the surrounding ranges and the ruins far below us. Then, we descended to Machu Picchu in time to witness the state visit of Peruvian President Alejandro Toledo (enjoying a high of 17 percent approval in the polls) and Kofi Annan, and their wives. The latter waved at us and said, elegantly and concisely, "It's nice to see you." Yay Kofi!


The Inca trail, with porters carrying our things for us.


Sitting down for a meal on our Inca Trail excursion.


The scenery surrounding the Inca Trail.

Interesting facts about Peru: No. 3 The Inka Empire covered parts of present-day Peru, Ecuador, Columbia, Brasil, Argentina, Bolivia, and Chile, but lasted less than two centuries and was conquered by a Spanish army comprising fewer than 200 soldiers, in a battle which lasted a day (to simplify just a bit).

Lake Titicaca

We took the train from Cuzco to Puno, the main town on the shores of "the world's highest navigable lake." This was a real treat--the views of the altiplano sliding by, with scatterings of furry llama and even furrier alpaca amidst the bleak expanse, amazed us--and when we arrived in the bustling city it was an abrupt change from the peaceful mountain scenery. We remained breathless, and spent the next few days walking slowly everywhere, because L.T. is even higher than Cuzco, at 4,000 meters (ish). Puno itself is not a pleasant city, filled as it is with touts who alternately try to sell you something and warn you about the touts trying to sell you things, but the Lake is quite wonderful, as is the late-afternoon light in the area. We spent two nights and the accompanying days on and in the lake, first visiting Los Uros, the "Floating Islands" made of layers of reeds and inhabited by several hundred Peruvians, and then continuing with a tour to Amantani and Taquile Islands.


The distant mountains of Bolivia from one of the islands of Lake Titicaca.


On the floating reed islands of Lake Titicaca

We were housed with a family who served us delicious simple soups of every type of potato and a corn or two and who dressed us in ropa tipica to attend a party with the other tourists and a host of locals. Among the latter, it was obvoius that the younger girls, demure in their black head-shawls and layers of thick, stiff, colorful skirts, were quite excited by the party and the "dancing" which took place there, while the older folks (especially the men) were merely tolerant of the goings on. The dancing bears mentioning, for it was quite fun in a silly way, consisting of a partner dance in which the two take turns yanking each other's arms forcefully back and forth alternating with a sort of "crack-the-whip" group dance involving the turning in circles of the group, whose hands are joined. An essential aspect of the latter is that great speed is put on in the turning of corners. Much loosening of shoulder joints and attendant hilarity ensues. The nighttime sky outside of this party was unbelievably clear and just stuffed with stars, which were new and wonderful to us, and the peace of that midnight rivals any evening we have spent in the Sierra.


The family we stayed with on Amantani in Lake Titicaca.

After saying good-bye to our charming little family, we went on to Taquile, where the inhabitants walk all around town knitting--the old and the young, male and female--and where each bit of clothing has significance. The men wear a handsome uniform of black pants, white blouse, and short vest/waistcoat which resembles a toreador's; about their waists they wear woven fajas and, if they are married, colorful, tasseled woven "chuspas" (bags) in which they carry coca leaves to share. Their most important article of clothing, however, are their hats--the colors of which indicate their marital (or single) status, and in the placement of which indicates their disposition : i.e., if single, if they are seeking a partner, already have one, or aren't yet in the game. Another very tranquil afternoon and evening, and we felt quite enchanted by the time we left on the third day.

Arequipa

Arequipa is touted as ¨La Ciudad Blanca,¨a pretty little white colonial city. It is actually one of Peru's largest cities but maintains a provincial air and has a very pleasant Plaza de Armas surrounded by Spanish-style buildings with arches and balconies. We visited the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, a huge sixteenth century convent where, it is rumored, the wealthy daughters of Arequipeño high society were allowed to live lives of cloistered luxury. We spent a few hours wandering between and around the spacious ¨cells¨''each with its own kitchen, wonderful natural light, and nearby courtyard--imagining a life of contemplation and gossip.


The Convent at Arequipa

Later, we went to see ¨Juanita,¨the sacrifical victim who was frozen in the ice of a nearby glacier for almost five hundred years before an American archeologist-and-mountaineer found her, in the melting of the glacier caused by a nearby volcano's eruption. We wondered about the propriety of viewing what amounts to a murdered body, not even a mummy, for reasons of fascination, but we did find Juanita and the other children sacrificed in similar manners interesting. The idea is that these youths were chosen from infancy, as being of noble blood, to be possible sacrifice victims in times of struggle for the Inca empire. The Incas believed that the mountains were gods, and came to offer them propitiation when natural events were going badly. The mountains that they Incas had to climb to offer these sacrifices are heights that most modern hikers would not assay!

Interesting facts about Peru: No. 4 The light switches are tabs which work left to right, not up and down.

Nazca

From Arequipa, we took a night bus to Nazca, arriving in the early morning to be greeted by a swarm of touts whose offers we avoided, ending up on a Nazca Lines tour within an hour nonetheless. We took a tiny five-passenger airplane (a Cessna 306) and spent almost half an hour flying over the desert and the lines, the plane banking on each side alternately above the notable figures in the sand below. Adrian became somewhat ill, but we both found the flight pretty remarkable. Among the creatures depicted by the removal of a dark layer of surface pebbles, to reveal the lighter sand and create a comparative image, are a hummingbird; monkey; heron; spider; owl man (or astronaut); and orca.

There have been many studies and theories about the meaning of the lines, and the current thinking seems to be that they had both astronomical and hydrological significance. Some of the lines, which are several hundred meters long, indicate equinoccial and solstice times, and some of them (it is reckoned) point in the direction of water sources. The desert seems to have become more arid during the time when the Nazca civilization was there, and there is evidence that the people suffered a forty-year drought at one stage, so water would have been an much-craved element. Some people maintain that the images were also meant to be ¨processed¨as part of a ceremony to ask for help/water from the gods.

Near Nazca, we visited a few museums and a gruesome ancient cemetery the denizens of which had, in effect, been mummified by the dry conditions of their desert burial. We stopped off at the coastal city of Ica, where we enjoyed the regional museum and suffered our only criminal attempt of the trip to date when Adrian was attacked by a would-be mugger who lunged at him but did not manage to make off with anything, before returning to Lima for a night and day.

Special dining out supplement:

Delicacies on offer at Peruvian restaurants:

• jumped beef
• avocado to the queen
• soup to the minute
• trout to the garlic
• loin to the poor
• mounted loin or, if you prefer, mountain loin
• wound chicken
• shrimp snatched
• loin to the pepper

and to wash it down:

• wisky sorrounds
• buckin pineapple
• chapped coffee